An aromatic perfume and taste of very ripe apricots
Few wines on the planet can have seen the sort of renaissance achived by viognier.
Back in the early 1960s, when I was taking a first few tentative sips of alcohol, the grape was almost extinct – down to a few hectares in its Northern Rhone homeland.
Since then, it has seen an extraordinary, exponential growth in popularity, with other countries jumping on the bandwagon to produce it as well as France, and a massive increase in worldwide sales.
Chardonnay may still totally dominate the white wine roost, but viognier is certainly doing pretty well thank you. The best of these wines have a lovely aromatic perfume, and the most distinctive taste is one of very ripe apricots. Because of its fragrance, it is often blended, in small quantities, with red wine, to add a new dimension.
At the end of the day, although viognier is now produced by a number of countries, notably Australia, Chile and South Africa, the finest are still reckoned to come from the French region it originally hails from.
The sort of classic tastes responsible for the wine's progress from obscurity to high profile in the space of a few decades are on offer in Paul Mas Estate Single Vineyard Collection Viognier 2009 (13.5 per cent, usual price 8.99, down to 6.49 a bottle if you buy two at Majestic during a promotion throughout September and October).
This full, rich white wine has an enticing, slightly musky, floral fragrance, a bit like May Gold roses, with tastes of apricot, peach and hints of honey. This is a cracking aperitif which would also go well with fish or poultry. Recommended.
Viogner joins forces with its main white wine rival in Vignes de Nicole Chardonnay-Viognier 2009, Domaines Paul Mas (13.5 per cent, down from 9.99 to 7.49 in Majestic promotion).
The wines are fermented separately, with the chardonnay spending four months in oak barrels before blending. The results are a complex wine, with pineapple, peaches and hints of honey, and floral overtones. It's smooth, with a lingering finish.
Red and white come together in Paul Mas Estate Single Vineyard Collection Syrah-Viognier (14.5 per cent, down from 8.99 to 6.49 at Majestic).
One to bear in mind for when summer salads are replaced by autumn roasts and casseroles in a month or two's time.
From the same producer comes a full-blooded 100 per cent red – Paul Mas Estate Cabernet de Cabernet 2008 (13.5 per cent, down from 7.99 to 5.99 at Majestic). This is a blend of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc from the south of France, with ripe blackcurrants and blackberries in generous measures.
Finally, the nights may soon be drawing in, but there is still plenty of time left for another ros – the last of the summer wine. This is a brand new one from Down Under – Paxton Shiraz Ros 2009, McLaren Vale (11.5 per cent, 9.99, Oddbins, and 20 per cent off for any mixed case).
Should be drunk young, asap.
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Weather for Chichester
Tuesday 29 May 2012
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