Beyond Bordeaux. Wines from south west France

Clambering for more and more attention is the next-door region in the Dordogne around Bergerac. Overshadowed by its illustrious neighbour for many years, the Bergerac wine region has developed in leaps and strides over the past twenty years, now making first class whites and reds which happily hold up their heads alongside their better-known peers.

The wine industry and wine production are in a constant state of flux. In the last two or three decades many changes in wine production have occurred, due principally to a combination of modern technology and a new generation of winemaker who have travelled the world and returned with new ideas from New Zealand, Australia and California. Put all this together with centuries of tradition and expertise on the home ground, and the results are plain to see – or taste.

Southwest France has an ideal climate for winemaking and with the varied soils and topography, together with some unusual indigenous grape varieties. A multitude of different appellations are found in the region stretching from the edge of the Bordeaux vineyards to the Pyrenees, producing vibrant and exciting wines well worth exploring.

Pacherenc du Vic Bilh Domaine Laougue 2021 is an unusual white wine from a region identical to that of the better-known red Madiran. An elegant and refined dry white with a lovely golden hue and interesting depth of flavour from the local Petit Courbu grape variety. The name is derived from the local Occitan dialect and much of the wine from the region is sweet white. The dry wine makes a delicious aperitif and is great with a goat’s cheese and courgettes quiche. £13.95 from The Wine Society.

From a next-door region in the shadow of the Pyrenees, comes Jurancon Clos Lapeyre Vitatge Vielh 2018, Jurancon being between Pau and Biarritz. The Occitan name for this cuvée relates to a parcel of old vines, between 80 and 100 years old. Vinification and ageing in old oak vats gives a deep straw-coloured wine, with great complexity, depth and length. Quince, ripe pears and apricot jam with candied orange peel and a rich, mellow texture, from a blend of local grape varieties, mainly gros manseng. Absolutely fabulous, characterful dry white at £15.50 from The Wine Society.

From a small almost unknown appellation comes Marcillac Domaine du Cros 2021 with the evocative name ‘Lo Sang del Pais’ – Blood of the Land, referring to the colour of the iron rich soil. Local grape variety fer servadou is grown on steep, terraced slopes near the town of Conques on the Santiago de Compostella pilgrim route. A light bodied wine with a touch of tannin, deep ruby colour and raspberry flavours. Think Beaujolais with a kick of tannin. Fabulous with a good saucisson. £10.50 from the Wine Society.

Madiran is a slightly better-known region, famous for its deep black-red coloured wines from the Tannat grape. Madiran Chateau d’Aydie 2017 is a masterful and modern expression of this wine, from the Laplace family with a worldwide reputation for the quality of their wines. Modern winemaking gives a more approachable wine, with ripe, softer tannins and sophisticated complexity. Dense, rich and tremendous with a Cote de Boeuf or rich beef casserole. £19.50 from The Wine Society.

Four interesting and unusual wines of great quality from this diverse area.